COOKING
Really Grilled Grilled Cheese
Forget the bread - fire up the charcoal and cook up a batch of hot halloumi.
 (Photo by Jim Scherer) |
Ask an American "What is a grilled cheese?" and they'll tell you it is a sandwich with melted cheese and toasted bread. Ask the same question of a Cypriot, though, and the answer would likely be "halloumi."
Ha-what? Halloumi (pronounced "ha-LOO-mee") is a sheep's-milk cheese - or, sometimes, a sheep's- and goat's-milk cheese - from Cyprus made in a process similar to that used for mozzarella. The curd is submerged in hot liquid, which both heats and softens it, and then it's stretched. The result is a fairly firm, springy, low-moisture cheese that can be sliced, grated, and, most notably, grilled. On the grill, halloumi develops a rich, golden, flavorful crust, while the inside softens without melting. Bite into a slice of grilled halloumi, and it will squeak against your teeth.
The flavor is mild, salty, and a little tangy - assertive, yet less sharp than many fetas. Halloumi generally comes in half-pound pieces about the size and shape of an overstuff ed man's wallet. Around Boston, it is available at Formaggio Kitchen and Pemberton Farms, both in Cambridge, Sevan Bakery in Watertown, and at Whole Foods markets.
GRILLED HALLOUMI WITH LEMON AND HERBS
SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER
Lemon and dried oregano are a typical garnish for grilled halloumi, but fresh herbs taste livelier. Pita bread is a nice accompaniment, and it's even better if you throw it on the grill along with the cheese.
1/2 to 3/4 pound halloumi, patted dry with paper towels
1/3 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano, parsley, basil, or mint, or a combination
1 lemon, cut into 8 wedges
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. While the grill heats, stand the halloumi on end and cut it lengthwise into four planks, each 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick, then cut each plank in half crosswise. Brush both sides of the halloumi slices with olive oil and grill over a medium-hot fire, turning as necessary, until the cheese is grill-marked and deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer from the grill to a plate, drizzle with the remaining olive oil, sprinkle with chopped herbs, and serve hot with lemon wedges.
CYPRIOT SPIEDINI
SERVES 5
Spiedini, pieces of meat or fish grilled or broiled on a skewer, belong to Italian cuisine, but we are taking some cultural liberties with this appetizer by using halloumi in the mix. If you use bamboo skewers, soak them in water for an hour or so before putting them on the grill.
1/2 loaf crusty French or
Italian bread, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces, each with some crust
1 pint cherry tomatoes
1 pound halloumi, patted dry with paper towels and cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano, parsley, basil, or mint, or a combination
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. While the grill heats, thread 10 skewers with bread cubes, cherry tomatoes, and cheese cubes, starting and ending with bread on each skewer. Brush liberally with olive oil and grill over a medium-hot fire, turning frequently, until bread and cheese are grill-marked and deep golden brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from grill, sprinkle with chopped herbs, and serve hot.
GRILLED HALLOUMI AND WATERMELON SALAD
SERVES 4
This salad is a riff on the classic combination of watermelon and feta. Not only do you have a sweet and salty flavor combination, you get contrasting hot and cold. On that note, keep the watermelon slices in the fridge, or even in the freezer, while you grill the halloumi.
1/2 to 3/4 pound halloumi, patted dry with paper towels
1/3 cup olive oil
1 pound chunk watermelon, very cold, rind removed and flesh cut into pieces about
2 inches by 2 inches and 3/4-inch thick
1/4 sweet onion, such as Maui, Vidalia, or Walla Walla, very thinly sliced
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint 1 lime, cut into 8 wedges
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. While the grill heats, stand the halloumi on end and cut it lengthwise into four planks, each 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick, then cut each plank crosswise into quarters.
Brush both sides of halloumi slices with olive oil and grill over a medium-hot fire, turning as necessary, until cheese is grill-marked and deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove from the grill, and working quickly, arrange on a large serving platter alternating with watermelon pieces to make a shingle pattern.
Sprinkle with sliced onion and mint, and serve immediately with lime wedges.
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